Spending Mornings Inside The Eggshell
Big breakfast eaters usually have a go-to place for weekends. I like that idea. My favorite weekend breakfast spot is my recliner, because Dear Richard is a terrific breakfast chef. And he delivers. On Sundays, I throw my daily coffee, yogurt, dry toast regimen to the wind, and indulge.
However, when we are on vacation, seeking a special breakfast can be a challenge. Last week, we got lucky. We found our ultimate breakfast eatery in little Loudon, New Hampshire. Offering “breakfast, lunch and comfort food,” The Eggshell Restaurant occupies the corner of Route 106 and Shaker Road. Shaker Road leads to the hilltop Canterbury Shaker Village, our destination for a day of a volunteer project, and two sleeps. In my book, two sleeps translates into two breakfasts.
John, The Eggshell’s owner, has overseen sausage, bacon, and pancake flipping on his grill for over 35 years. The restaurant is open from 6:00 AM – 2:00 PM, with breakfast always available. And he sure knows how to entice a drop-in stranger with his menu. After I read through the offerings, including a dozen omelettes, I said to Richard, “We have to stay another week.”
The first morning, we arrived shortly after 7 a.m. I’m NEVER up, dressed, and out of the house at that hour, but my meeting back up on Shaker Hill was early. While Cindy, our waitress, was pouring our first cups of java, I noticed a sign on the north wall: “Sleep: a symptom of caffeine deprivation.” The opposite wall declared: “Coffee – if you’re not shaking, you need another cup.” I could only grin and nod agreement while sipping their great coffee – ground fresh daily.
“Cindy, about this Irish Benedict ….” I had spotted the unusual name within the Eggs Benedict listings. The Irish was corned beef hash topped with poached eggs, smothered in Hollandaise sauce. “Is it possible to order it with the English muffins on the side instead of underneath?”
“Absolutely,” was her answer. Cindy was as agreeable to every need-to-know question as she was to keeping our cups full. The Irish Benedict was truly Top O’ the Mornin’ delicious – tasting even better than I hoped.
When we walked in, only one other table was occupied – three men, obviously regulars. Gradually, their big round table, the only one, was filled by coffee-klatch buddies arriving one at a time. Some had breakfast, some had only coffee. And just as gradually, the booths, the center tables, and finally the counter stools filled. I watched, still a little bleary-eyed, as both entry doors regularly admitted the locals trickling in: young families, businessmen, older couples, a policeman and his firefighter buddy, and an adorable blonde toddler with her mother and grandmother. When we left, our seats were immediately taken by a waiting trio of construction workers. Others were still standing, and it was only Wednesday! The place could easily be named, “Where New Hampshire eats.” This Pennsylvanian was more than happy to be there.
We arrived Thursday morning at the more indulgent hour of 10:30 a.m., snagging the last table. Cindy and Susan were hustling, making pots of coffee almost every time they picked up an order. The whole staff worked like a well-oiled machine.
At one point, a regular from the coffee klatch went behind the counter to fill his own cup. The Eggshell obviously serves as much everyday comfort as comfort food. I noticed another sign above the coffee machines: “There is a $ charge for whining.” I laughed. Who could whine in this homey atmosphere?
My mouth watered just reading the menu again. I settled on the native blueberry pancakes, and they arrived jampacked with the flavorful tiny berries found only in New England. One of the sides offered was N.H. maple syrup. I understood why it was offered separately – it’s like pouring liquid gold. Yum! Deep into Yankee breakfast mode, I added a side of baked beans. And an egg. For protein. I didn’t know the pancakes were going to be the exact size of the plate! I had to make a center slit just to keep the syrup from sliding onto the table.
After my ice-cold orange juice and cups of that fabulous coffee, I tried to walk out the back door without waddling. We began our ride home through New Hampshire and Vermont well fed – sufficient to sustain us to dinner in Syracuse.
The Eggshell filled my tummy, my coffee cup and stole a bit of my heart. I know I’ll go back. I need a few days just to try eggs with kielbasa, their homemade bread as French toast, or a mouth-watering Mexican omelette. I saw one on the next table. OMG.
As you read this today, I’m back home, back to morning yogurt and dry seeded toast. My private chef’s contract only requires him to cook on Sunday.
Marcy O’Brien can be reached at Moby.32@hotmail.com.
