The White Nights Of St. Petersburg
- Peterhof is famed largely for its fountains, which are both ingenious works of hydraulic engineering and masterpieces of monumental decorative art. The glittering, iridescent jets of the three cascades and the many fountains playing in the rays of the sun create the unique sensation of a celebration of nature and Peter the Great’s own favorite element — water. This is an open-air museum unlike any other in the world. Photos by Frederica Dunn

Peterhof is famed largely for its fountains, which are both ingenious works of hydraulic engineering and masterpieces of monumental decorative art. The glittering, iridescent jets of the three cascades and the many fountains playing in the rays of the sun create the unique sensation of a celebration of nature and Peter the Great’s own favorite element — water. This is an open-air museum unlike any other in the world. Photos by Frederica Dunn
Our Baltics cruise began in Copenhagen, Denmark, with a two day stop in the city of “White Nights.” This profoundly Russian City of St. Petersburg was conceived by Czar Peter the Great or Peter I. His grandson, Peter III, subsequently married Catherine II or Catherine the Great.
The best part of the year in this region is widely considered to be the period from May to June, known as the “White Nights.” People are out and about during the night as well as the day because the daylight hours last so long. Music and laughter are heard everywhere as people while away the evenings in restaurants and cafes. It is as if the city senses the mood of its people and seeks to share with them their joy and or melancholy. The famous White Nights seem to compensate for the frequent rains, clammy mists, short winter days and long autumn nights. This sets the scene for what is the main attraction for visitors, the exquisite city itself and its famous Hermitage Art Museum that houses the treasured art collection.
St. Petersburg is considered to be a European city by the Russians and was founded on May 27, 1703. When Peter the Great conceived its construction, he thought of it becoming first and foremost the maritime gateway of Russia and “a window to Europe.” The creation of the city was a daring feat. Peter the Great turned his back on the traditions of “ancient” Russia and called upon the new generation to welcome his ambitious plans. Many thousands of human lives were lost in the construction process and it is perhaps of this that the history of St. Petersburg is so full of dark and tragic events. By the end of its first century of existence, St. Petersburg was easily compared to some of the finest cities in Europe.
In times of war, hostile forces have tried to capture the city but because of the incredible spirit of its citizens not once has an army succeeded in setting foot within its limits. Even the most terrifying blockade in the history of mankind, lasting 872 days, was unable to break the spirit of the citizens.
Three terrible floods on the banks of the River Neva have threatened to destroy this man-made wonder, yet the city has stood its ground. The floods have occurred with alarming regularity every hundred years: 1724, 1824 and 1924.

Tsar Peter I invited a host of foreign architects to work on the new capital and it is to all of them that the city owes its remarkable appearance (Trezzini, Rastrelli, Quarenghi, Cameron, Montferrand and others). Architecturally the city drew on the finest achievements of European urban construction. It has often been remarked that the magnificent buildings erected here by noted Italian, French or British architects acquired the special quality uniquely typical of Russia.
Petersburg is notable for everything having been thought out in advance. Yet, for all the rational planning, there is no feeling of monotony. The dense rows of houses forming the streets themselves delight the eye with their variety of design and color.
Palace Square and the world famous Hermitage museum did not gain its current title until the middle of the 18th century when the Winter Palace was built along the northern edge overlooking the Neva River. This became the home of the Russian Emperors from 1763 to 1917. Today, the Winter Palace is one of five buildings that make up the architecture of the State Hermitage Museum.
One of the most amusing exhibits of the museum is the 18th century Peacock Clock. This curious plaything, intended for amusement, is an intricate mechanism comprising the clockwork figures of a peacock, a cockerel, an owl and a squirrel. You can hear the tinkling of tiny bells, after which the peacock spreads its tail feathers and the cockerel crows to announce the hour.
A highlight of the trip was a tour of Catherine’s Palace — one of the masterpieces of world architecture. Catherine ordered the Small Hermitage (1764) to be built onto the Winter Palace to house her rapidly expanding collection of art. She purchased art work which included 225 canvases by renowned Western European masters. Today, the Hermitage collection numbers about three million exhibits.
The Hermitage’s collection of Dutch and Flemish art ranks among the greatest in the world. The greatest of the Dutch masters, Rembrandt, is represented by 25 of his paintings. The leading Flemish artist was Peter Paul Rubens and the museum has over 40 of his works including “The Union of Earth and Water, Perseus and Andromeda, and Bacchus.”
One of the main features of the palace is the famous Amber Room. It is simply enchanting. One French author once wrote that: “The eye, unused to seeing amber in such quantities, is captivated and blinded by the wealth and warmth of the tones, which encompass every shade of yellow from dusky topaz to bright lemon.”
A description of St Petersburg would not be complete without mention of the former imperial residences that are strung out around the edges of the capital. The favorite of Czar Peter I was Peterhof residence, after whom it is named. This includes a park with an area of over a thousand acres, thirty buildings and over one hundred sculptures with cascading fountains everywhere. Besides the fountains themselves, sculptures and bas-reliefs play an important symbolic and ornamental part in the Grand Cascade ensemble. In the form of allegories, they represent and celebrate Russia’s military prowess and naval might.
Peterhof is famed largely for its fountains, which are both ingenious works of hydraulic engineering and masterpieces of monumental decorative art. The glittering, iridescent jets of the three cascades and the many fountains playing in the rays of the sun create the unique sensation of a celebration of nature and Peter the Great’s own favorite element — water. This is an open-air museum unlike any other in the world.
A noteworthy person of Russian history was Catherine II, often called Catherine the Great who was born in Stettin, Prussia (now Szczecin, Poland) and married Peter III in 1744. Peter III was the grandson of Peter the Great who founded St. Petersburg. She became the Russian empress in 1762 and left an indelible mark on Petersburg and Russian history. As the story goes, Catherine started out as a minor German princess with the birth name of Sophie Friederike Auguste and received a new name — Yekaterina or Catherine when she married into the Russian royal family.
Catherine’s husband assumed the throne, becoming Peter III but he was killed in a coup in 1762. Claiming to follow in his footsteps, Catherine II had a beautiful Bronze Horseman sculpture built to honor him. The French sculptor Etienne Falcone’s work of art is the centerpiece of Decembrists Square and its striking outline is clearly visible from around the city.
During Catherine’s reign, Russia greatly expanded its borders. Through her leadership with victorious military might and diplomatic prowess, Catherine showed the world that Russia was a world power. She reached a peace treaty with the Ottoman Empire in 1774, which brought new lands into the empire and gave Russia a foothold on the Black Sea. One of the Ottoman war’s heroes, Gregory Potemkin, became a trusted advisor and lover of Catherine’s.
At the time of Catherine’s accession, Russia was viewed as backward and provincial by Europe. Catherine was well read and devoted to the arts. She had a theater built for opera and ballet performances and also became a prominent art collector. Many of these paintings were displayed in the Hermitage in St. Petersburg. Catherine also made some significant contributions to Russia, bringing educational reforms and championing the arts.
The love life of Catherine II has been a topic of much speculation. Catherine could not remarry, as it would jeopardize her position but she did have numerous relationships during her reign. According to most accounts, Catherine had several lovers during her life. She had a system for managing her affairs — often bestowing gifts, honors and titles on those she favored.
Catherine died of a stroke on Nov. 17, 1796, at the Winter Palace where her coffin lies in state next to that of her late husband, Peter III.
St. Petersburg has only been on the map for 300 years, yet, its beauty has earned it worldwide acclaim. One can always see elements of other European cities: its embankments are reminiscent of Paris and its many canals similar to Amsterdam. The countless bridges and proximity to the sea bring to mind Venice, while shades of London are to be found in the city’s mists and green parks.
Even after a single visit, it is impossible to forget the splendor of its architecture, the beauty of the well-laid out streets and houses of “informal” Petersburg, the ghostly charm of the White Nights, and the sparkling jets of the Peterhof fountains on a bright summer day.