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Rising Out Of Ashes

La Scala Chef Recounts Tragic Fire, Growing Up In The Biz

Mike Seagren serves Clam Linguine in the kitchen, which he calls ”the center of gravity,” at La Scala Restaurant.

Mike Seagren literally grew up in the restaurant business. His mother, Mona Seagren, and Joe Condella opened La Scala Restaurant, named after an opera house in Milan, Italy, in 1977. Italian-American food has been served there for 40 years.

“She worked in the dining room until she retired, but had her pulse on it until she died,” says Seagren.

The son went to school for basic culinary training, but most of his experience and skills have been acquired from working with the restaurant’s chefs since he was in eighth grade.

“I started doing dishes, bussing tables and salad prep and worked my way up to assistant chef, then chef and ended up running the whole restaurant,” he says.

When purchasing food he would look for value, learning that “by spending more you would get more.” His mother and her partner started to trust his judgment.

A steaming bowl of spaghetti.

“I was surprised that they allowed me to do the hiring and firing when I was just 18 years old,” Seagren says.

A devastating fire completely destroyed the original La Scala in November 2008. An employee alerted Seagren to the smoke while his wife and daughter slept above the business. Fourteen fire companies responded to the fire whose smoke could be seen from Kennedy to Sugar Grove. A small burned spot on the furnace was detected, but the origin was never determined.

“(After the fire) I drove around the lake looking for a building. This building became available two days after the fire, but I was in no position to even think about it. I looked at it three times and finally made an offer,” Seagren explains.

The new La Scala, which was originally Bender’s Pancake House and then a motel, a restaurant, a club and an AMVETS, took a year and a half to renovate. It was a goal to decorate in an Old World Italian decor, similar to the restaurant that had been lost to the fire.

“I chose the carpet and decor with people helping. They gave me choices,” Seagren says. “People would make reservations early in the old restaurant in order to get one of the three booths. We now have 17 booths.”

All desserts are served with two spoons.

Helen Gilbert and Alice Chamberlain painted the murals in the old La Scala. All of the murals in the new restaurant were painted by Gilbert.

“I tried to support the local businesses when we were renovating,” Seagren says.

Seagren is always looking for a better product, though not necessarily a better price, and buys local foods in season. Integrity is very important to him. He always looks at labels, and drives to Buffalo to get many of his specialty items.

“I like to have things everybody doesn’t have,” he says. “We try to distinguish ourselves with unique items that are not in the grocery stores.”

All of the filets, Porterhouse and New York strip steaks are prime grade, which represents only 20 percent of cattle production.

Aside from steaks, the menu contains several appetizers, including escargot, sauteed chicken livers and pesto cream steamed mussels. There are also chicken, seafood and pasta choices. Eleven entrees are featured on the special $14.99 favorites menu. An early dine menu with varieties of pasta, beef tips, fish, veal and chicken selections is available from 4:30-6 p.m. with all dinners priced at $9.99.

La Scala has a wide selection of wines and are known for anniversary, birthday, holiday and special celebrations. Four private banquet rooms seat up to 160 and a large banquet room can accommodate a cocktail party or mixer.

“We do custom menus for special events, such as hors d’oeuvre parties, buffets and sit-down dinners,” Seagren says.

The restaurant employs 12, with the owner’s wife, Chen Li, serving as the dining room manager.

“She does a lot. She designed the website and is very helpful and kind. She was made in China with perfection,” he smiles. “All of my people work hard.”

He donates much of the leftover food, as well as the remainder of special order cases of food, to St. Susan’s Center. He is modest and doesn’t like to be recognized for what he does.

Coin collecting is an interest of Seagren’s and he rents space at Salamanca Antique Mall where he sells coins. He and his wife have an 11-year-old daughter, Meicola, who loves to play the piano and is in fifth grade.

La Scala Restaurant is located at 3155 Fluvanna Avenue, Jamestown, New York. The hours of operation are Tuesday-Saturday 4:30 p.m. until the last reservation is served. If people call they will stay open and they will open for parties of 50 or more during non-business hours. Call 664-7534 for reservations or to book an event.

Cherry Cola-Chocolate-Mayonnaise-Sauerkraut Bundt Cake

2 c flour

1/3 c unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder

11/4 tsp soda

1/4 tsp baking powder

3 eggs

11/2 c sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 c mayonnaise

1 c cherry cola

1 c sauerkraut, washed, drained and chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray a Bundt pan heavily with cooking spray. Sift flour, cocoa, soda and baking powder together on a sheet of wax paper. In a large bowl with mixer on high speed, beat eggs, sugar and vanilla extract. Reduce speed to low, and beat in mayonnaise. Add flour/cocoa mixture alternately with cola. Stir in drained sauerkraut. Bake in prepared Bundt pan for approximately 45 minutes. Cool 10 minutes, remove from pan onto serving plate.

Chiffon Cake

12 eggs, separated

1/2 tsp cream of tarter

1/2 c melted coconut oil

1/2 c coconut milk

1 c sugar

1 tsp salt

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 c shifted coconut flour

1/2 tsp baking powder

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Combine egg whites and cream of tartar in large bowl. Using electric beater, beat until stiff peaks form. Set aside. In a separate bowl, mix butter, coconut milk, egg yolks, sugar, salt and vanilla extract. Combine coconut flour with baking powder, and quickly whisk into batter until moistened. Batter will thicken if stirred for too long, or allowed to sit for more then a minute or so. Pour gradually over beaten egg whites, folding with rubber spatula until blended. Do NOT over mix! Pour batter into greased tube pan. Bake for 75 minutes, or until knife inserted into cake comes out clean. Turn Pan upside down on a funnel to cool for at least 30 minutes. Remove cake from pan, and cover with glazed frosting.

Glazed Frosting

1/3 c coconut oil, melted

2 c powdered sugar

11/2 tsp vanilla extract

2-4 T of hot water

Combine melted coconut oil, sugar and vanilla extract. Stir in hot water, one tablespoon at a time, until glaze is desired consistency.

Creamy Coffee

Cheesecake

(Yield 9″cheesecake)

Crust:

11/2 c graham cracker crumbs

1/4 c powdered sugar

6 T melted butter

Coffee Filling:

32 oz cream cheese, softened

3/4 c sugar

2 tsp instant coffee granules

1 tsp hot water

2 eggs

1 c sour cream

3 T Kahlua liqueur

Topping:

11/2 c sour cream

2 T sugar

1/2 tsp vanilla extract

1/8 tsp salt

Prepare crust. Place all ingredients in a medium bowl. Toss with fork until well blended. Place crust mixture in 9-inch spring form pan. Using back of spoon, or hand, press crumbs firmly in the bottom of the pan. Refrigerate at least one hour, or until cold.

For filling: Place cream cheese in large mixing bowl and beat with electric mixer until very soft. Beat in sugar. Dissolve the instant coffee in the hot water, and beat into cream cheese mixture. Then beat in eggs, one at a time, until well blended. Add sour cream, and liqueur to the filling, and beat slowly until thoroughly combined. Pour filling into prepared crust. Bake in preheated oven at 350 degrees for 40 minutes, or until filling has set. Place on wire rack, and cool 40-60 minutes.

For topping: Place sour cream in medium bowl and gently stir in remaining ingredients. When well blended spread topping over the cool cheesecake. Bake the topped cheesecake in an oven that has been preheated to 425 degrees for 5 minutes or just long enough to set sour cream. Allow to cool on a wire rack, refrigerate for at least 4 hours before cutting.

Clam Linguine

3 cans whole baby clams

1 package linguine

3 T coconut oil

6 scallions, chopped

1 large red pepper, chopped

1/2 lemon

1 garlic clove, chopped

salt and pepper to taste

fresh parsley, chopped

Heat 1 tablespoon of coconut oil in medium sauce pan. Saute scallions and peppers until tender. Add clams with some juice, garlic, lemon, remaining coconut oil, salt and pepper and continue to cook over low heat for 10 minutes. Prepare linguine according to package. Place linguine in oblong casserole dish, and top with clams and parsley. Serves 6.

Blender Blue Cheese Dressing

(Yield 1 pint)

1/2 c olive oil

1/3 c lemon juice or vinegar

1/2 c mayonnaise

1 tsp salt

1/2 tsp dry mustard

1 small garlic clove

2 oz blue cheese

Put all ingredients in blender container. Cover and blend on high for six seconds. Keep refrigerated.

Spaghetti Sauce

1/2 lb bacon

21/2 lbs ground beef

2 c chopped onion

1 c green pepper, chopped

6 cloves garlic

3 large cans tomatoes

3-6 oz can tomato paste

11/2 c dry red wine, divided

3 tsp basil

3 tsp oregano

1/2 cup parsley

1 bay leaf

1/2 c water

2 tsp thyme

2 T salt

2 c mushrooms

a little brown sugar to taste

Fry bacon until crisp in a 6 quart pan. Remove bacon and fry ground beef until browned. Drain off grease. Stir in onion, pepper and garlic. Cook 10 minutes. Mash tomatoes. Add tomatoes and tomato paste, bacon, 1 cup wine and all remaining ingredients, reserving 1/2 cup of wine. Bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 4 hours. Stir occasionally. Taste after one hour, and adjust to taste using remaining wine, if needed.

Sausage and Biscuits

8 oz block sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

1 lb sausage

3 c buttermilk biscuit mix

1 tsp salt

Cook crumbled sausage. Combine the rest of ingredients with hands. Shape into small balls or patties. Bake at 375 degrees for 12 minutes. Serve hot.

Chicken Chowder

2 chicken breasts, cut

1/4 tsp thyme

1/2 tsp sage leaf

2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp pepper

2 large onions, chopped

5 potatoes, diced

1/2 c butter

1/3 c flour

2 c milk

1 c half and half

5 slices of bacon, fried crisp and crumbled

fresh parsley, chopped

Put chicken in pot, and cover with water. Add herbs, salt, pepper and onions. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 20 minutes, or until chicken is tender. Add potatoes to broth and simmer covered for 15 minutes, or until potatoes are tender. Melt butter and blend in flour. Stir into soup and continue stirring until slightly thickened. Add milk, half and half and heat until hot. Serve with parsley and bacon. 6 servings

Holiday Spinach Salad

5 slices bacon

3 T lemon juice

2 T olive oil

1 T sugar

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp tarragon

1 lb spinach

1 c green onions, sliced

11/2 c celery, sliced

1 orange, sectioned

Fry bacon until crisp, but not hard. Cut into small pieces. In a jar, combine bacon, 2 tablespoons bacon fat, lemon juice, olive oil, sugar, tarragon and salt. Shake well until combined. Thoroughly wash spinach and break into bite sized pieces. Add onions, celery, and orange sections. Pour dressing over all and toss until well coated. If desired, use lettuce leaf and tomatoes.

Coconut Oatmeal Cookies

1 c brown sugar

1 c white sugar

1 c coconut oil

2 eggs

1/2 tsp salt

2 c flour

1 tsp soda

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp vanilla

3 c quick cooking oats

1 c coconut

1/2 c chopped nuts

Preheat over to 375 degrees. Cream sugars and coconut oil. Add eggs, then rest of indigents. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto greased cookie sheet and flatten with a glass or fork. Bake at 375 for 10-12 minutes. Makes 5 dozen.

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